Magpie Prescriptive Manicures
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All nail types have different needs and if necessary it is important to trial various product options on clients to know what works best for them and their natural nail type.
PRESCRIPTIVE MANICURES
Always take a note of which products you've used on your clients and if they have any service breakdown so you can tailor the perfect service for them by trying different base coat and overlay options.
At Magpie, we have a wide range of base coats and overlay options to ensure there is a system suitable for everyone. We believe nail products are prescriptive. Just like skincare, it is unlikely that one product will bring out the best results for all of your clients.
Anyone who experiences pocket lifting (when correct structure has been applied) should avoid our softest system GIVE ME STRENGTH. With this system being softer, some nails (especially when they become longer) will have too much flex which causes pocket lifting to the stress area of the nails. Instead we would recommend trying our GMS+ (structure gel), PERFECT POLY (acrygel), SCULPT IT (hard gel), BUILD IT or BMU (builder gel) systems. These harder systems also a great options for any clients who have an active nail lifestyle and are prone to enhancements snapping.
When selecting a system to use consider the following:
- The shorter the nail, the less structure is required. Short length nail clients may only ever need to use our structure gel systems. However if they have very weak nails or a particularly rough lifestyle, a builder /hard gel may be more suitable than a structure gel. Due to strength of our strongest builder gel (BMU) it cannot be applied thin or it will crack. Therefore we would not reccomend this for short builder gel overlays - instead use BUILD IT.
- Clients with longer nails need more strength and structure usually than a structure gel alone. Builder gels, hard gels or acrygel can be used to create the extra strength clients need. Some clients nails may react better to a builder gel and other better to a hard gel or acrygel system. This is why it's important to be able to offer a range of systems for clients as one will not fit all.
- Any clients experiencing lifting should have RUBBER UP base coat applied prior to enhancements for extra adhesion and/or use our PRIMER.
NAIL PREP STEPS
WATCH APPLICATION VIDEO HERE
A thorough client consultation should be completed to determine which base coat is most suitable for your client. The condition of the natural nail must be considered, as well as clients daily routine and lifestyle. Any previous nail irritations or allergies must be noted too.
Changes within the body are often reflected in the appearance and health of the skin, hair and nails. Technicians should be aware that a client's nail condition can fluctuate over time due to various factors, including medication changes (e.g. birth control) and other hormonal shifts such as pregnancy or menopause as well as any other medical conditions.
A variety of our base coats are available in clear and cover shades. Clear gels provide greater strength than cover shades, which is why we recommend applying a clear base layer for any clients who are prone to lifting.
Before application, ensure a meticulous dry nail preparation is carried out, followed by a thorough scrub of the nail plate with PREP & DEHYDRATE - no other prep liquid or acetone. Cap all free edges and cure for the full recommended time in the MAGPIE LAMP (which should be replaced around two years) to achieve optimal adhesion and wear.
If a client returns with pocket lifting, it indicates that the product used isn't strong enough or the structure isn't suitable for the enhancement length. Any nails with significant lifting should be fully soaked off, and alternative products or a revised structure should be applied to prevent it from happening again.
For clients with persistent lifting issues, use our most durable base coat, RUBBER UP which is exclusively available in clear.
If lifting continues, our PRIMER can also be applied sparingly beneath a gel base coat for additional adhesion support. If too much primer is applied it will have the opposite effect so remember to blot before application.
